BPI is a Manufacturer and Distributor of Quality Paints
Make sure surfaces to be painted are dry sound and free from dirt and materials which would affect the appearances and life of the paint. Ensure glossy surfaces are abraded to provide a suitable key for new paint. Remove all dust and debris from the surface as this will affect the look of the finished job. When painting metals or alkaline substrates select the correct primer for the job. Follow the guidance on the can regarding drying times and thinners.
1. Choose a warm, dry day with little wind which has followed a good spell of dry weather. 2. Work in small manageable areas, beginning at the top of the house cleaning and repairing as you go. Use a suitable masonry cleaner with a stiff brush to remove any dirt, loose masonry or old flaky paint. Repair with a suitable exterior filler. 3. Make repairs to exterior wood work, rub down with a fine abrasive where paintwork is in good condition to create a surface which new paint can adhere to. Strip back fully to bare wood where paint or woodwork is damaged or old. 4. If existing paint is sound then wash and dry off before re-painting. If however several layers of old paint exist, stripping back fully will achieve a better finish. Use a chemical stripper and wire wool to remove the old paint. 5. Clean down the stripped metal with a wire brush and white spirit prior to painting. Use a specialist exterior/masonry paint and use a masonry roller or wall brush to achieve a good finish. Wear heavy duty rubber gloves when using chemical strippers
9-inch Roller tray and Paint Roller: Rollers larger than nine inches are heavy, unwieldy, and inaccurate. 4-inch rollers are handy for getting inside cabinets and cupboards. Select the correct roller type for the surface you’re painting (check the label). As a general rule, the smoother the surface you’re painting, the shorter the roller ‘pile’ you use. scraper: Use the point to pick out loose paint and cracked plaster; the flat top, to scrape loose paint. filling knife: for the smooth application of filler to cracks and gaps When working on ceilings or in cramped areas, decant a little paint from the can into a small, light container. A clean plastic food-storage container with a tight-fitting cover is ideal for emulsion paint; a metal can is better for oil based paint. brushes: Select proprietary brushes for the type of paint being used. Straight-edge brushes handle all tasks nicely. Some people find angled brushes more comfortable in tight spots; and angled brushes are especially good for painting trim and straight edges.
1. To improve the look and performance of the finish coat. 2. To seal unpainted surfaces or to provide a more receptive surface for the finish coat. 3. To ease the transition from a dark to a light colour and to prevent stains from bleeding through the finish coat. 4. To prepare a surface previously painted with alkyd paint for a new coat of emulsion paint.
1. Roll up the carpet/rugs. Make sure furniture is covered and moved to centre of the room. Put down a dust sheet or paper on the floor around the area you are painting. 2. Loosen or remove attached equipment (wall sockets etc.) and remove all switch plates, and door and window furniture. 3. Make sure you remove all loose paint and plaster/wallpaper. 4. When painting over wallpaper make sure all seams are properly glued 5. Rake out and fill all cracks, screw holes, seams and imperfections with proprietary filler. 6. Sand smooth any repairs to walls 7. Before painting, sand all areas lightly. 8. Remove all dust and debris from walls using a damp cloth, tack cloths or vacuum the area.
1. Lay a flattened corrugated box on the floor and set out your tools and paint cans, its padded surface will protect the floor and soak up any drips. 2. Decant some of the paint into a smaller, easy to handle container. 3. Load a 2- or 3-inch straight-edge brush. The correct way is to dip the bristles one-half to two thirds of the way into the paint. Don’t get paint on the ferrule (the metal wrapper that holds the bristles). Clear excess paint from one side to the brush by dragging it against the side of the container; don’t drag both sides. Always apply the loaded side of the brush to the wall. 4. Working from the ceiling down, paint a 3-inch frame around all the edges of the room that would be awkward to roll. Paint the corners; outline the ceiling; edge the skirting board and architraves to the windows and doors, baseboard, light fixtures, plugs and switchplates. Painters call this ‘’cutting in’’ 5. Let the paint dry. Now you are ready to use a roller to cover the large areas. 6. Slip the appropriate sleeve onto the roller cage (handle). Attach the roller extension handle. 7. Pour about an inch of paint into the deep reservoir end of the paint tray. Leave the other end of the tray clear. 8. Dip the roller into the tray, and move it back and forth on the roller bed. The roller should be well saturated with paint, but not dripping. 9. Once again, you will work from the ceiling down. Roll an area about 2 feet square. Work the roller up, down, and across until you’ve covered the area evenly. Cover the entire ceiling and wall this way, square by square. 10. If paint begins to build up on the wall at the edges of the roller, gently roll out the lines immediately. Latex paint starts drying quickly, so don’t go back over tacky paint. 11. Watch out for “painters’ holidays” – patches where paint is too thin. If another coat is necessary, allow the paint to dry properly before repeating. 12. Painting windows. Try not to lay on paint too thickly, and avoid the edges where moving parts meet. Slide windows up and down during the job to keep them from sticking shut. 13. Painting the trim. Work from ceiling to floor: picture rail first, skirting boards last. Hold brush comfortably in your hand and take care not to overload it with paint. Before painting skirting boards, do one final dusting. Once skirting boards are painted, close off the room from dust, and let everything dry.